Secrets of the Log Cabin Block

It's no secret that now I have a lot of scrappy strips!
Having a first project planned is a good way to easily switch from one huge activity (stripping my scraps) to another (actually sewing!). So as I was cutting the Pink fabrics, I decided to make a Pink & Brown Log Cabin quilt...and those strips went into a separate box, right from the beginning.

Better than a jelly-roll!

Log Cabin is the first pieced block I ever made...a good story for another time...and one I have often returned to. It's just strips, great scrappy or with planned colors, and can be arranged to create a wide variety designs: Barn Raising, Streaks of Lightning, Stars...even the sets have names! Any design you can make with Half-Square Triangle units can be done with Log Cabins.

The Truth About Log Cabin Blocks
It looks easy but it isn't!
If you've made this block, you know what I mean: All the strips are the same width...the seam allowance is 1/4"...why do they come out wrong?
The size is wonky, the strips are all mixed up...how can such a simple block not work?

Why, Oh Why?
It's because this block goes "round & round" from one side to the next. That pulls it out of square.
This is the same reason you don't put your borders on from one side to the next (do you?). Sewing borders on two opposite sides, then measuring through the middle and sewing the other two, will keep your quilt straight.
But the Log Cabin has to go "round & round"! 

How to Make It Work
One fix is to cut all the strips to the length they will be in the block...that works well, especially if all the blocks are colored the same, all the strips are the same length to start, and you keep everything in order.
I'm working very scrappy here (besides being immensely lazy). So I like to sew the strip on and then cut off the extra.

Let that strip hang out!

You can just chop it off with your scissors BUT give it a bit of extra...DO NOT cut it off even with the block edge because it will never end up square! I know it looks like it will, but it just won't.
You can see the extra bit, so when you line up the next strip don't use that part to match the raw edges.

Go ahead and sew 2 Lights and 2 Darks to complete a round, which makes the block look like a square. Don't count the center square, just the sides you sew on.
I made a Trimming List of the raw-edge sizes for each round. These are 2" wide strips, so my list was:
First Round- 5'
Second Round- 8"
Third Round- 11"
The finished block is 10.5", an odd size, but they only need to match themselves.
You can make blocks any size you want, wider or narrower strips, several more rounds.....figure your Trimming List by adding the finished size of each piece (include the center) plus the 1/2" seam allowance which is already there on the outside edge.
Here's how to trim:

First trim two sides...

This is my second round, but it works the same for each round. Just do this by eye...center in the middle, most of the seams pretty much parallel to the ruler lines, the edges under the ruler (light sides here) at or slightly beyond the Trim List (raw edge) size lines. Trim the excess on the right and top.
(Lefties! I love ya'! This is actually something you can just reverse "right" to "left" and it will work).

...then rotate and trim the other two!

Rotate the block so the trimmed sides are under the ruler...line them up exactly with the Trim List size lines, and then cut. Sometimes I like to mark the final size corner with a bit of tape, but didn't here.
Trimming at each round will help correct for the "not perfect" seam allowance. 

More Secrets!
Just two...I know you're ready to quit reading and start sewing!

1) Be consistent! It doesn't matter so much how you sew this block as that you do the same way each time: Light OR dark goes on first; last strip sewn on goes TOWARD you or AWAY; block OR strip is on top when sewing. This will keep the strips going around in the same direction...clockwise or not, they all do need to go the same way. And this keeps the direction from changing in the middle of the block!
Not being consistent will create many artsy or odd blocks...that's another choice, for a different quilt.

2) Press the seam before trimming. Open or to the side is your choice, continuing to be consistent either TOWARD the center or AWAY. If you have scissor-cut the excess strip length, this is where trimming evens it up to be exactly square (if it isn't already hidden in a previous seam allowance).

3) Chain-piecing is wonderful for these blocks. You really MUST press before trimming each "log" with this method. If you keep adding blocks until the strip is filled, the blocks start out the same, but eventually, as new strips are added, you end up with blocks at many different stages (rounds and values). See #1 above!

Very scrappy blocks are pushing the value placements!

Color choice can be a whole big deal, but I'd like to mention just a couple thoughts.
Quilt mythology has it that the center square is red for the warm hearth, or yellow for a candle in the window to guide someone home. You can make it whatever color you like, but its value will increase the amount seen on one side or the other.
I tried to stick just with using values, so the Pinks are both light and dark, as are the Browns. When using 2 colors, some people like to keep them on separate sides.
If you look at antique quilts, what seems "Pink & Brown" is usually loaded with additional colors. I think a touch of blue keeps it from being boring. For a scrap quilt, choosing prints that look mostly the color you want will naturally bring in additional bits of color to please the eye.

Well, that's my story and I'm sticking to it! There are lots of other ways to build a Log Cabin, and I'd like to hear your thoughts. too. 
And, of course, if you just want to avoid the whole "round & round" issue, you can make the block called Courthouse Steps...adding the strips to opposite sides!

Group Quilt Projects

This is my President's quilt, a signature gift from my guild. No, that's not laundry under it...that's a pile of crochet items for another charity!


At some time you will likely be involved in making a group quilt project (though you try to avoid it!).

In a guild this is liable to be a raffle quilt or a gift of some kind (for charity, President, member or family). Quilts are popular and traditional fund-raisers, so you may be roped into to making one for any group!

I know you are rolling your eyes right now! But I have some help for you.

Group projects are notorious for having such a variety of workmanship that they are difficult to assemble. While part of the "charm" of a group-made quilt is that variety, the process can be an excellent learning process. Quilt guilds should encourage their membership to imporove skills, though not at the hands of the "Quilt Police".

You really cannot expect someone to do better unless you give them some idea of how.

I wrote the following handout for my guild several years ago. It has appeared in the newsletter and been available to pick up as a flyer. Since we are starting in our President's blocks for this year, it will go in the newsletter and on the website.

I'll share it with you now.
If you'd like to use it for your own group, please be sure to include my website and/or blog when you copy it.

http://www.PatchworkPie.blogspot.com/
When you’re making a block for a group project….
HOW TO CHECK YOUR BLOCKS
BEFORE YOU HAND THEM IN:
1. Check the directions or call the leader to find out the CORRECT SIZE OF THE BLOCK. You may want to know both measurements: The finished size (how big it looks when sewn into the quilt) and the unfinished size (from raw edge to raw edge). The unfinished size is what you will be checking. It will be 1/2" larger than the finished size, to allow for the seams.
2. Measure your block on each side to see if it is right. It must be within 1/8" to be usable.
3. The edges should be straight. You should not have any sections sticking out uneven from the others.
4. If the block is not right, check your 1/4" seam allowance first. If it is too small, you can just re-sew the right size. If it is too big, you have to rip out the seam and then re-sew it.
4. If the seams are OK, check the strips cut for the block. Sometimes it looks right but is too narrow or wide. Even if you cut exactly, an inside layer may have been off.
5. Too-small blocks can be marked and used in another project where they don’t matter.
6. Too-big blocks can be taken apart, re-cut & re-sewn…..if you feel like doing that much work!
If you decide to just trim off an oversize block, it cannot be more than 1/2" too big. You will need to very carefully take the same amount off EACH of the four sides.
7. You cannot trim down a block that has a point at the outside edge. If the pattern does have a point at the edge, be sure there is 1/4"seam allowance beyond it.
8. When the block looks nice and is within 1/8" or perfect, then you can proudly hand it in!
CHECK BEFORE YOU SEW:
You can avoid “reverse sewing” an entire block by checking the UNIT SIZE before completing the whole block. If you measure and make sure of the correct size whenever you sew two things together, you will be correct through all the steps.
Thank-you for your work on all our guild projects. It really is appreciated. Nobody expects all the blocks in a group project to be exactly the same or to be perfect. But they should be the best you can do.
By following these guidelines, now you know how to do your best!
www.SunnieQuilts.com