Quick Gift: Microwave Bowl Cozy

Sewing a last minute gift is practically a tradition for most quilters. This year the Microwave Bowl Cozy (yes, it just a giant pot holder!) seems to be all over the web, so here are my directions for making it:

SUPPLIES

Microwave safe 100% cotton batting--TWO 15" squares (see fabric below)-- I used Wrap & Zap by the Warm Co. They are no longer making Warm Tater, but say that Warm & Soft is the same...I could not find that in the Big Box store. You want something without a scrim (which Warm & Natural has, even though it says 100% cotton). I have never heard a personal experience of batting catching fire in a microwave, and suspect it might happen only if you cook something too long! But I also did not want to run my own test!

100% Cotton fabric-- TWO 15" squares-- you can measure a bowl or plate and make a custom size, but I think this will fit anything pretty well. It could be larger or smaller, but cut the batting to same size, to make two pairs of fabric & batt. They can be different prints/ colors, etc.

MACHINE SET UP This is the stuff nobody thinks to tell you about before you get started!

Use a size 90/ 14 needle, because you will be going through a lot a layers before you're done (esp. if you have a chosen a BATIK for this or pieced the squares).

Match your bobbin to the top thread! Just do it now so you don't have to wish you had later.

You can sew the whole thing with a walking foot if your machine handles lots of layers better with one. If so, put it on now.

Use a slightly longer stitch length...do not sew this with teeny tiny stitches.

SEWING
1. Sew an X on each fabric/batt pair, corner to corner.

The two pairs, different sides up

You can see a little zig-zag at the bottom right! It's perfectly OK to piece your batting so you can use the whole package.

2. Make a dart in the center of each side: fold the square in half Wrong Side out, and mark 1" away from the fold, and 2.5" down along the fold. Draw a line to connect the dots (I used a Sharpie). Pin to hold. 

Draw a sewing line for the dart

You can mark two sides, then re-fold the square and mark the other two before sewing.

Each square/pair gets four darts. You can start sewing from either end, and it only has to be back stitched at the point on the fold.

Zig-zag batting join will never be seen!

3. Use your scissors to trim the excess dart fabric. The sewing and  trimming do not have to be precise. be sure you have 4 darts in each square/pair before the next step!

Nobody cares how wide the seam allowance is

4. Place the two square/pairs Right Sides together, one "inside' the other. Pin to match at the darts and corners. Take my word, you want the darts in BEFORE you sew it all together! Unless you'd like a cozy that matches my personal one, which was supposed to be a gift, but ended up with darts on the outside.

Don't worry, it looks better when it's done!

5. LEAVE AN OPENING about 3" when you SEW all the way around. You know why I put that in caps right up front! Sometimes I start by back stitching, then lift the pressure foot and pull the item though a few inches, then back stitch and sew the rest of the way around. The seam allowance can be 1/4", or less, or maybe different on each side!

6. Turn the cozy Right Side out...poke out the corners (nobody cares if they aren't sharp...in fact, you may want to sew the next one with rounded corners!). Top stitch all around.

I like to close the opening as I top stitch, and usually trim the batting out of the seam allowance there first. You could hand stitch it closed, especially if you want to top stitch more than 1/4" in from the edge and avoid the extra batting layers.

Lots of layers do well with a walking foot. My Janome 7700 has a special one.

7. Most of the instructions end there, but I like a final step to hold the two layers together. In the center of the bottom, sew a little square or just tack in place. That X sewn can be pinned to line up, but it really doesn't matter.
This means you can throw it in the wash, which is a good thing for any item that is used in the kitchen!

One stitch in the center would be enough

Well, that's it! Quick and easy, as well as being very useful. Tell your giftee it just goes right in the microwave with the bowl or plate, ready to protect their hands when they remove the dish. And remind them it can be washed!

I even patched batik scraps for this

Sure, you can use patchwork for one or both sides (it's really 2-sided) or maybe a nice holiday fabric. If the shape seems a little odd, I'd just put a plate of cookies in it, fold in the corners and tie it up with a ribbon. 

Be sure to mention if the plate is microwave safe OR NOT! I got some metal ones from the dollar store, and they are NOT.

As with any simple item, you can get quite creative. But you can also make one of these cozies pretty darn fast!

Quilt Binding By Machine

Recently a faithful follwer, the Mysterious Ms. E, requested some information on doing a binding completely by machine.
This is a fantastic way to finish a quilt that is meant for hard use, or one that is not intended as a show-stopping heirloom. It's great for pot holders! And, while I know there are a few people out there who can do this beautifully, it is not considered to be the nicest way to do the binding. The control you have with a traditional hand-sewn finish method will give a much better edge.
That said...let's look at how to do it!

Here are the supplies...I used a gold bobbin and black thread on top in hopes the pictures would be clearer (it's a usable pot holder!).  The quilt block has one layer of cotton batting, and a backing made of blue terrycloth, and has  been "quilted" (stitched through all layers) in a X. You can just stack the layers up and then trim them all to be the same size. I would also suggest that you do a quick zig-zag stitch all around the outside to hold the layers together better...not necessary for a regular quilt, though.
The binding is a French double fold , meaning the strip is cut and folded so the long raw edges are together. You may want to cut a slightly wider binding to finish by machine (2.5").  For a hand-finished binding, I cut it a bit narrower.

Sew the binding on the BACK, as it will be turned to the front. That is so the wonky stitching will show on the back, when it's done, not the front. Just sew it the way you usually do, folding and mitering the corners as you go around. Feel free to skip ahead here if you know how to sew a binding...

This is actually what I do (please do whatever works for you!). Sew towards the first corner, and stop 1/4" (OR the width of the seam allowance) before the corner. Remove the item from the machine, rotate to line up for the next side, and turn the binding strip up so the raw edge is straight in line with the side.
When you bring the binding back down to match the raw edges on this next side, the fold goes right at the top, even with the first side. I am using my fingers to keep everything in place...

...and I continue to use them to hold it all together. Feel free to pin, but I find it is easier to give it the "Pinch O' Death" to move back under the needle. If something slips, I can easily re-adjust it. Sometimes pinning and removing the pin will pull things out of place.

Eventually you get all the way around to where you started...and if you remembered to leave a bit unsewn, you can tuck the end inside the beginning. Or you can use any number of nice ways to sew the ends together...that is a subject all in itself!
Now turn to the front:

Pull all the binding to the front, and check a corner to see how the miter will fold. You are going to sew this the same way as any binding, so you want the first part to go smoothly down to the corner, then the miter forms when you turn the corner.

The difference is that you are going to topstitch right along the fold.

Sewing close to the fold gives it a neat look....the fold should cover the bobbin thread (first line of stitching).
THINGS TO CONSIDER:
...Now the bobbin thread will show on the back, so maybe you want it to be the same color..
...You could match the fold to the stitching line, and in theory it would look like stitch-in-the-ditch along the back side (don't count on it!). There is a fusable thread, which you could use in the bobbin when you first sew the binding on, then you can fuse the fold right where you want it. And do remember to change it out before you go to the front.
...Matching the fold to the stitching line may not allow the edge of the item to fill the binding.
...You could use a fancy stitch with totally contrasting thread.
When we return to the back you will get the idea. Until then, let's keep sewing!

Sew all the way to the end of the side, at the corner. Backstitch, and remove from the machine.
Fold the miter in place, and continue topstitching along the fold.

There you are! Staying close to the fold keeps you from having a flap-like effect along edge.
So let's look at the back now (the bobbin thread is now red instead of gold):

OK, this is the important point...something is going to look funny, unless you happen to be one of those people who take the time to finesse the entire project.  That means "be really fussy"...but thank-you if you are...you give the world something nicer to look at than my slap-dash style!
Now, it is possible to sew the binding on the front, as usual, and turn it to the back to sew down. Then you'd get this kind of stitching showing on the front.
OR  you can sew to the front, turn to the back, but stitch-in-the-ditch along the front...and then you will get a flap on the back side, or not catch the fold evenly all around.
This is why Our Friend the Pot Holder is so good...he allows us to try out a technique so we can understand it, and then have a useful life in the kitchen! None of that wasted "practise time"!

A machine binding is a wonderful thing...but chances are it will not win you any Quilt Show ribbons, as some judges don't like it, even though (as I have shown) it is difficult to do nicely.
But it is very secure, and it is faster than a hand-finished binding, so it has its perfect place in the utility world....which includes a lot of great quilts for kids!